HEMINGWAYS WATAMU: FALL ASLEEP TO THE SOUND OF THE OCEAN IN KENYA'S MARINE NATIONAL PARK

This idyllic resort has it all: great community, white sands and the ocean that teems with wildlife. It’s proof there’s much more to East Africa than safari, says Lydia Swinscoe

Synonymous with safari and the big five, Kenya’s coast often mistakenly gets overlooked in favour of the country’s impressive game reserves. But with swathes of white sands and an ocean that teems with wild spinner dolphins, humpback whales, and vividly coloured fish, this is one part of the world you don’t want to miss out on.

Unfolding directly onto the paradisiacal beachfront, and surrounded by swaying palms, manicured gardens dotted with bird of paradise blooms, and a handful of swimming pools that mirror the cloudless, bright blue expanse of sky above, Hemingways Watamu embraces frazzled guests like long-lost friends.

But it’s not only the surroundings that add to the magic, it’s the people who work here that make this five-star resort feel like a true home away from home. Always eager to chat, Hemingways’ hardworking staff elevate this hotel from amazing to truly exceptional.

As the jumping-off point for one of Kenya’s first protected marine parks, and recognised as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve due to its abundance of coral gardens, and impressive marine life, the village of Watamu - where Hemingways is located - is a truly unbeatable natural haven.

The closest airport to the hotel is 30 minutes away in the town of Malindi, a one-hour, 15-minute plane ride from Kenya’s capital Nairobi. Otherwise, it’s around a two-hour drive from Mombasa along an epic coastal road where the ocean changes colour by the second, from cobalt blue, and azure to the brightest turquoise. Direct flights from London to Nairobi are available daily, starting at around £600 return with BA.

With a fresh colour palette of bright whites, soft blues, and sage greens, the hotel has been designed to allow the natural beauty of the surroundings to truly shine. The huge open restaurant area that affords breathtaking views of the ocean from almost every angle stands out as the focal point of the complex. Here wicker tables and chairs are dressed with botanical print cushions, fresh flowers, and nods to the ocean with shell and coral-inspired artworks.

The bar, on the other hand, with its free and easy atmosphere, feels slightly more rustic with wooden detailing and a focus on deep-sea fishing since life-size cast models of marlin and hammerheads proudly line the walls. It reminds me of establishments I’ve visited in Key West and Havana, places that the hotel’s namesake, Ernest Hemingway also frequented. I can almost imagine the intoxicated writer, strong cocktail in hand watching over the place at sunset.

A handful of pristine swimming pools and the serene spa cater to holidaymakers who simply want to fly and flop, while the huge on-site tennis court and well-equipped gym are ideal for fitting in a holiday run or workout.


Sandra Santeyian

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