I Spent 7 Days in Costa Rica and This Is What It Cost

The biggest irony of freelancing is that while you’re “free” to make your own schedule, it can be nearly impossible to take time off. Unless you’re a freelancer with consistent, well-paying clients, you’re always hustling up the next gig—and any time away is money lost.

As a freelance writer, I rarely take vacations. But recently, I decided to get my nature fix in one of my favorite places on the planet: Costa Rica. It’s certainly not the most affordable option in Central America, but because I’ve visited previously, I knew I wouldn’t overspend on some of the big tourist attractions and that I would feel more comfortable adjusting plans on the fly if needed. I just wanted a couple of days to enjoy Arenal Volcano, the rainforests, and wildlife near La Fortuna—plus a few more days to top up my Vitamin D on the coast in Playas del Coco.

My goal was to keep the one-week Costa Rica trip under $1,000. Thanks to a $200 flight credit, reasonably priced shuttles, and massive food portions that worked for double meals, I almost pulled it off. But a bad Airbnb that caused me to switch to a more expensive hotel at the last minute pushed me a bit over budget. Here’s a breakdown of what I spent on a solo Costa Rica vacation.

Job: Freelance writer
Annual salary: $20,000-40,000 per year
Location of residence: New York
Age: 41

Where: Costa Rica
How long: Seven days
Planned budget: $1,000

Flights: $292.46. I booked a last-minute flight from Syracuse, New York to Liberia, Costa Rica, and used a $200 flight credit (the total without the flight credit would have been $492.46).
Hotels/Lodging: $483.66. I spent two nights in an Airbnb in La Fortuna for $98.61, two unplanned nights at Hotel Arenal Montechiari for $177.05, and two nights at Toro Blanco Hotel in Playas del Coco for $208.
Rental car/cabs or rideshares/public transit: $196.84. I paid for two Interbus shared shuttles, one taxi, and one Uber ride.

Total cost: $8.75
I snagged a free sub at Jersey Mike’s, my usual pre- and post-flight spot, with points I’d accumulated from past purchases, so I didn’t pay a penny for my first meal of the trip—just a $2 tip. I also didn’t have to worry about hailing a cab as my parents dropped me off at Syracuse International Airport with an absurdly large sub in hand.

I arrived a few minutes early at the Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport in Liberia, Costa Rica, passed through customs and immigration in about 30 minutes, had a nice chat with a Costa Rican gentleman who was waiting to pick up his family member from the airport, and caught the Interbus shuttle from Liberia to La Fortuna. After the 3.5-hour drive to La Fortuna, the shuttle dropped me off at a hotel close to my Airbnb, saving me the added cost of an Uber from the center of town.

I left my bags at the Airbnb, did a quick search for nearby sodas (casual and fairly priced restaurants serving typical Costa Rican dishes), and found a highly reviewed food truck called Vikingos Restaurante nearby. I walked five minutes and was met with a big smile and friendly Pura Vida vibes from the chef, and the food was quick, delicious, affordable, and plentiful. I had the 3,500 colones (~$6.75) chicken casado (a dish that typically includes a protein served with rice, beans, salad, and sweet plantains), and discovered it also came with a pile of freshly fried tortilla chips. I happily devoured half of the meal and saved the other half for breakfast before returning to my Airbnb to crash for the night.

Total cost: 26,500 colones (~$52)
Paper-thin walls, dirty sheets, noisy neighbors, and a nauseating chemical stench at the Airbnb left me haggard and cursing my booking decision. I’d hoped to get a bit of work done, take a walk around town, book a hiking tour, and then meet an old friend for dinner; instead, I spent the first half of the day searching nearby hotels for affordable alternative accommodations—last minute and on a weekend in one of the busiest tourist destinations in the country. Fortunately, I had that leftover Vikingos casado to keep me company.

After securing two nights at Hotel Arenal Montechiari (and getting confirmation from the Airbnb owner that she’d refund me for two of my four nights), I headed out for a walk. The sun was shining and I wanted to see if the elusive Arenal Volcano would show itself. I also needed lunch and coffee, and I was craving the typical Costa Rican breakfast of gallo pinto (rice and beans) served with eggs, cheese, and sweet plantains. I found a cheery place called Restaurante Costumbres serving breakfast all day for 5,100 colones (~$10).

Some locally made clothing caught my eye as I passed the Cianikal artisan boutique in town, and I bought a top for 10,000 colones (~$20) that could be worn multiple ways… so really that’s several tops for $20, right? Then I parked myself at Typica Coffee Bar & Grill, where I hammered out some work while enjoying an iced coffee, a freshly squeezed juice, and a huge plate of arroz con pollo (rice and chicken) for 11,400 colones (~$22), including a 10% tip and 10% service charge. The view of a sloth chilling in a tree just across the street from me? Completely free.

I dreaded returning for a final night in the dingy, noisy Airbnb but coaxed myself back with the promise I’d spend the next day entirely outside.

Total cost: 31,670 colones (~$62)
I awoke to the sound of pouring rain. (If you’re visiting a tropical rainforest, you have to accept that you might see more rain than forest.) I decided to push the hiking plans to the following day but was still eager to escape the Airbnb, so I packed my bags and caught an Uber for 1,960 colones (~$3.85) plus 400 colones ($.75) tip to Hotel Arenal Montechiari. My hasty departure cost me my breakfast: I forgot my arroz con pollo leftovers in the Airbnb refrigerator. But my rustic cabin at the hotel was available for an early check-in, so I dropped off my bags, threw on my raincoat, and walked into town to find brunch.

Perhaps I should have scouted a new restaurant to try, but I was starving and craving the arroz con pollo, iced coffee, and the friendly faces I’d found at Typica the day before. I ordered takeaway (8,594 colones, ~$16.80), chatting about Costa Rican coffee with the staff while I waited. En route to my cabin with the food, I watched butterflies flitting around some flowers in La Fortuna’s central park and noticed movement up in the trees: rainbow-billed toucans. No matter how many times I see them, I’m always amused by their colorful and cartoonishly large beaks—and grateful to be in a place where encountering such wildlife is so common.

Back at my cabin, I spent the afternoon birdwatching on the porch. The hotel was pretty basic, but the surrounding vegetation was teeming with lizards, butterflies, and tropical birds. Sometimes true luxury is a quiet place to rest and soak up nature’s symphony of sounds and colors.

I booked a spot on a hiking and hot springs group tour for the next day and crossed my fingers for better weather. I’m not typically a group tour type of traveler, but I wanted to hike near the volcano and hit the hot springs on a budget. A first-time user code on the GetYourGuide app got me a 10% discount—$40.50 for the combo tour (original price: $45), including transportation.

I did some writing and gobbled up the other half of my arroz con pollo for dinner before turning in early, serenaded by a chorus of nocturnal creatures.

Total cost: 6,115 colones (~$12)
It was another wet day, but it was my last one in La Fortuna, so I was determined to make the most of it. After an al fresco brunch (included in the hotel rate) of Costa Rican coffee, gallo pinto, eggs, sweet plantains, papaya, and pineapple, the tour bus picked me up. Our first stop was to observe sloths in some nearby treetops before heading to Arenal Volcano for our hike. Being pelted by rain and whipping winds wasn’t quite the scene I’d envisioned for my reunion with one of my favorite volcanoes, but the moody vibes and brightly colored flowers set against black lava rocks offered a compelling beauty of their own.

Afterward, we soaked our muscles at some public hot springs, along with the crowds of people already gathered there. Not the serene scene I’d been dreaming of (and definitely not my experience at Costa Rican hot springs in the past). But I accepted my fate—and the large cup of cheap sugar cane liquor given to me by my hosts—as a participant in a discounted group tour and happily submerged myself, letting the mineral-rich waters and local spirits work their magic.

By the time I returned to my hotel, I was too zen to make much effort for dinner. An order of quesabirria (tortillas filled with meat and cheese, pan-fried, and served with a dipping broth) for 6,115 colones (~$12) from Restaurante El Mariachi, a Mexican restaurant located just two minutes walking from the hotel, was the quick, spicy, and satisfying meal I needed.

Total cost: 26,070 colones (~$50.50)
The rays of sunlight streaming through the cabin windows woke me from my slumber, and though I’m not a morning person I was still thrilled to see the sun. I leapt out of bed and ran outside to see if the volcano was visible. A thin halo of clouds was floating around its peak, but the volcano’s green slopes were completely exposed. I raced to the edge of the hotel’s property to snap a few photos when a rainbow appeared: like the low-key sloth viewing, this surprise was priceless and completely worth the wait.

I needed to catch an Interbus shuttle to Playas del Coco, so while I wanted to take in Arenal, and a bit of sun, a little longer, I decided to pack my bags and eat another Costa Rican breakfast of coffee, gallo pinto, eggs, and fresh fruit at the hotel’s open-air restaurant. The shuttle picked me up right on time and made a few more stops to pick up other passengers before hitting the winding road around Lake Arenal toward Costa Rica’s Pacific side. En route, we stopped at El Jardin, a large souvenir shop and restaurant where I purchased two bags of coffee for 13,430 colones (~$26)—one for me and one for my family.

After checking in at Toro Blanco Hotel in Playas del Coco, I went for a walk in search of lunch and kombucha. Nearing the end of my trip and ready for a break from rice and beans, I sprung for an overpriced (10,850 colones, ~$21 including tip) gluten-free pasta dish at Verde Salvia Ristorante Italiano and had zero regrets: It was tasty, the service was superb, and the portion was large enough to save for leftovers. I also grabbed a Kombucha Culture Purple Rain kombucha with CBD from the Auto Mercado grocery store for 1,790 colones (~$3.50).

The combination of the long shuttle ride followed by a walk in the sun and a stomach full of CBD and pasta made for a restful and early night.